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Nathula Pass: A Journey to the Top of the World

The Nathula Pass, a mountain pass on the Indo-China border, is more than just a physical feature; it also symbolises a unique cultural blend and historical significance.

Nathu La Pass, located on the Old Silk Route, connects Sikkim to China’s Tibet Autonomous Region. Nathula is a treasure trove for travellers, steeped in history, heritage, and awe-inspiring natural beauty.

The words Nathu and La imply ‘listening ears‘ and ‘pass‘, respectively. It is located approximately 54 Kms. from the capital city Gangtok (East Sikkim).

The journey to Nathula is an experience in itself, as it includes navigating via steep mountain roads with beautiful vistas of the Himalayas and a landscape dotted with army settlements.

It is one of the highest motorable roads in the world!

What is the Historical Significance of Nathula?

Nathula Pass has been essential to Sino-Indian trade because it is one of the three open trading border posts between China and India. Up until 1962, the crossing was the scene of thriving caravan commerce along the ancient Silk Route.

A thriving market was situated near the pass, which previously functioned as the primary commercial route connecting Tibet and India. The pass was shut down after the Chinese invasion in 1962 for nearly 40 years before it was reopened for trade in 2006.

I’ll take you on a trip to the top of the world in this post to explore the magic and wonder of Nathula!

Uncovering the Hidden Gem Through My Lens

My family and I recently travelled to Nathula. We had booked our vacation through a Gangtok-based tour operator. 

We had given them copies of our passports as well as two passport-sized photographs, which were required for the PAP (for Nathula Pass) and Inner Line permits (for Baba Mandir, Tsomgo Lake, Lachung, Yumthang, and Zero Point).

The tour operator had confirmed to me the night before the trip that permission for Nathula had been obtained, and he had asked us to be ready by 8.30 a.m. the following day.

The driver arrived on time, and we began our day excursion to Nathula, Baba Mandir, and Tsomgo Lake around 8.40 a.m. 

We soon arrived at the 3rd Mile checkpoint, where a few vehicles were already waiting to have their permits validated and checked. We had to wait around 10 minutes for the permit to be checked before we could continue our travel.

The driver made a quick stop at the “Kanchenjunga View Point” on our trip, around 20 km from Gangtok. We could catch views of Kanchenjunga, the world’s third-highest peak, because the weather was clear that morning.

Local sellers sold maggi, tea, corn, and clothing (stoles, mufflers, and so on). After a quick stop of around 10 minutes to take a few mandatory photos, we continued our journey.

The “13th Mile” was the next stop on our tour. This was recently in the news due to an avalanche that hit some tourists on their route to Nathula. The driver showed us the exact location and also explained why the mishap occurred.

We continued on our drive, and after approximately an hour and thirty minutes, or around 35 km from Gangtok, we stopped at one of the shops at “15th Mile.”

Almost all vehicles come to a stop here. There are paid bathrooms and various shops that rent out winter gear such as jackets, gloves, boots, and so on. From here, we hired snow boots for 100 rupees per pair.

We pre-ordered lunch as well, and the shopkeeper confirmed that it would be ready when we got back. After a little halt, we resumed our journey and soon crossed the picturesque “Tsomgo Lake”.

The surrounding scenery was really breathtaking. We continued to Nathula after the driver informed us that we would stop here on the way back.

The road was completely covered in snow on both sides en route, and the drive was simply breathtaking. We did take a few pictures, but what we saw with our eyes is difficult to describe in words.

We shortly arrived at the Nathula checkpoint. From here, one road leads to Baba Mandir (4 kilometres), while another leads to the Nathula Pass border (4 kilometres).

We were permitted in because we had permission to enter. Due to the limited number of authorised vehicles, we observed a few operators clubbing people into shared vehicles. Our tour operator had already assured us that we would not be required to do any clubbing.

This 4 km ride was quite unique, with snow all around and the vehicle moving through curves and turns. We arrived at the border around 11 a.m., when our driver stopped over.

He requested that we get down and told us not to rush and to walk gently to avoid any high-altitude sickness issues or breathing problems.

He informed us that the vehicle would be parked some distance away from the drop point. Please be advised that there is no network at this location (at least neither Airtel nor Jio, which I had), so you will be unable to make any calls.

Finally, we reached Nathula and stepped on the snow. Even though I had previously visited Rohtang and Gulmarg, this location was unlike anything else. The snow appeared to be quite fresh. By the time we arrived, more than 50 tourists had already made their way. 

Although some individuals claim that there is a shortage of oxygen and respiratory problems, my family and I found no concerns when we got out of the car and strolled around the area. In order to maintain our safety, we kept camphor with us and were just occasionally using it.

We observed some well-covered stairs going to the border area and memorial. It was tough to manoeuvre in the snow, so we were thankful for our snow boots.

Although we couldn’t see any Chinese soldiers, as most people claim they saw, we still had a great time for around 45 minutes. But there are no regrets because what we witnessed is palpable and indescribable.

We had an amazing time playing in the snow, taking pictures, shooting videos, and, of course, building our mandatory snowman. It was a lot of fun.

Though we wanted to stay and continue, it was time to leave because the crowd had grown and there was already a traffic jam. It should also be mentioned that the weather in this area varies rapidly.

So, in order to avoid rush hour and traffic, we decided to bid farewell to this magnificent spot. With a heavy heart for our soldiers, we arrived at the parking lot and found our vehicle among hundreds of parked vehicles.

We began our return journey at noon, turning left from the border gate onto Baba Mandir Road.

The experience of Baba Mandir and Tsongmo Lake, as well as other parts of our journey, will be detailed in the next write-up.

Until then, I’ll leave you with some amazing photos, videos, and my personal experience to mull over while you plan your Nathula expedition. Friends, have a wonderful reading time.

The sections below contain all the pertinent and helpful information in one location.

If this article has been helpful to you, do leave me a comment. If you ever embark on this adventure, please write to me and share your experience.

The Location and Accessibility

Nathula Pass, at an altitude of 14,140 feet (4,301 metres), is located on the old Silk Route and is approximately 54 kilometres east of Gangtok, Sikkim’s capital city. It takes roughly 2–3 hours to get from Gangtok to Nathula. 

The road here is maintained by BRO (Border Roads organization) and is in decent condition when we visited.

Can I visit Nathula as a tourist?

Because of its proximity to the Indo-China border, Nathula is a protected area. To visit Nathula, Indian nationals must have a valid Protected Area Permit (PAP). Foreigners, NRIs, and even OCIs (Overseas Citizens of India) are not permitted in this area.

How To Get Permit For Nathula?

Tourists visiting Nathula Pass must obtain a permit through a local tour operator authorized by the Sikkim Government Tourism Department. .

All you have to do is provide a photo ID (voter ID, driving licence, or passport) and two passport-sized photographs. It should be noted that the Adhaar Card does not serve as an identity proof when seeking permits in Sikkim.

Only vehicles provided by such tour providers are permitted to visit Nathula. Private taxis or self-driven vehicles are not permitted.

The Sikkim Tourism Department in Gangtok and the Police Check Post issue the entry permit.

Because this is a protected region, the number of permits issued each day is limited. Permit applications are typically submitted in the morning, and permits are issued in the afternoon or sometimes the next day, depending on road and weather conditions.

As a result, you must request permission at least one day before your planned travel. Permits are not provided to children under the age of five, so keep this in mind if you are travelling with a child.

Due to vehicle restrictions, tour operators may occasionally request that you join other cars at the entrance gate post. The border is around 4 kilometres away from here. Before you travel, make sure to verify this with your tour operator.

Once issued, your permission cannot be cancelled, transferred, or filed for a date change. If you have multiple entries, you must apply for a permit for each day as a new visit.

Moving Around Nathula?

Visitors to Nathula enjoy a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see the Indo-China border. The pass is divided by a barbed-wire fence, and visitors can observe the Chinese soldiers on the other side from the designated viewing spot.

You only need to climb the steps (about 90) slowly taking regular pauses in order to not gasp for breath.

The border checkpoint is marked by the Border Gates of India and China, a battle memorial, and an Indian Army Exhibition Centre. It was created to honour the gallant warriors who died during the Indo-China War.

Baba Mandir located near Nathula, was built in honour of Baba Harbhajan Singh, an Indian army officer who died in Nathula in 1968.

The new temple is located on the Kupup Gnathang Road and is a popular tourist destination in Sikkim. According to folklore, Baba Harbhajan Singh guards the border even after his death.

Tsomgo Lake, also known as Changu Lake, is a popular tourist destination in Gangtok, which is located on the eastern side of Bengal’s Sikkim District. This lake is generated by the melting of the Himalayan glaciers.

To visit this lake, a special permit from the Tourism and Civil Aviation Department of Sikkim is required.

The lake reflects various colours and remains frozen during the winter season, with yak rides available to enjoy it. This is one of the most gorgeous lakes around Gangtok and will leave you awestruck!

Mandakini Waterfalls is yet another lovely stop on the Nathula Pass trip. A scene from the film Ram Teri Ganga Maili is claimed to have been shot here.

Visiting Days for Nathula Pass

The Nathula Pass is a protected area open to the public five days a week, from Wednesday to Sunday. Mondays and Tuesdays remain closed. The entry to the pass closes at 2 PM; therefore, please arrive no later than noon.

Best Time to Travel

The best season to visit is from May to October when the temperature ranges from 10 to 15°C during the day. However, snow is not normally expected at this time of year.

Winter begins in November and peaks between December and February. Nathula is also worth a visit in November and December. However, considerable snowfall occurs during peak winters, and temperatures can easily fall below -25°C.

When it snows heavily, the road to Nathula is frequently closed. However, the months of November and March are good for seeing Nathula covered with snow because the weather is pleasant and not too cold. During these two winter months, the road is frequently open.

The monsoon season between July and September needs to be avoided due to landslides and road blockages.

Nathula Pass Permit Charges

For the Nathula journey, the agents charge between 4000 and 5000 rupees for permit, vehicle (SUV), and driver fees. These charges are in addition to your agreed-upon package pricing.

These charges are non-refundable once the permit is issued irrespective whether you travel or not.

Traveller Tips

1. If you get a permit for Nathula, you should start your journey by 7 a.m. (at the latest by 9 a.m.), as you need to get to the 3rd Mile Checkpoint by 10 a.m. It is roughly 6 km from Gangtok City and serves as the first checkpoint for the permit. Usually, there will be a huge queue here, so start early to avoid waiting.

2. Wear appropriate warm clothing and get snow boots and gloves from 15th Mile shops wherever your driver stops. (A pair of gumboots costs approximately Rs 100)

3. You will be crossing many areas where the army is stationed during your day trip, where photography is strictly prohibited.

4. Because Nathula lies at such a high altitude, oxygen is scarce. As a result, suitable medications should be carried out to avoid high altitude sickness. Carry some camphor with you as well, since it helps with any breathing troubles you may have.

Note: For senior citizens, it is recommended to carry a portable Oxygen Cylinder in the vehicle.

5. Don’t walk or run in your excitement to see and enjoy the snow. Take it easy and give it some time to settle. Thus, starting your journey early will allow you to enjoy the beauty of this location in a relaxed manner.

6. You can even have your food pre-ordered from the shops where you rented your winter gear so that you can have it while returning.

7. Due to the lack of a sufficient parking place, the entire area becomes packed, and if you arrive late, you may be dropped off a little distance from the main point, requiring you to walk further.

8. Check the weather forecast and make sure you follow the advice of officials and locals who are well-versed in the current situation. Avoid arguing for the sake of your own safety and well-being.

9. On the way to Nathula Pass, don’t miss the opportunity to see India’s highest ATM (Axis Bank) at Thegu.

10. Sikkim Government is very strict against littering and it is a punishable offense.

Nathula is a Himalayan treasure that combines natural beauty, historical relevance, and cultural experiences. Its spectacular landscapes, ancient artifacts, and Indo-China border experience create a lasting impression on visitors.

Nathula should be on your travel bucket list if you’re looking for an amazing vacation!